[bruce_miranda]

Hit a problem with the subwoofer install today. When I actually opened the sub woofer I noticed that one of them was not quite correct. The cone was not moving freely and the dust cap had come away. I've written to the person I bought these speakers from to see what options I have. I could really scream at this point but am trying to be clam.

I just thought I might as well finish my article as much as I can.

LESSON 3 : Install under seat subwoofers.

Installing the speakers should be the easiest bit of the entire process if you have the right speakers. The EARTHQUAKE SWS-8 8" SHALLOW MOUNT are the best for the job because they fit perfectly inside the enclosures under the seat.
I found the easiest way to get to the enclosures is by removing the 4 large Hex nuts from the seat rails and then simply tilting the seat back. Then remove the speaker grill.
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Number of downloads: 64

Next you need to remove the speaker screws. You may find it easier to remove the trim holding the carpet down to get to the outer screw.
To get to the screw near the pillar simply put your screw driver into the hole in the carpet which allows the grill screw to pass through. Much easier than having to open up more carpet. Once all 4 speaker screws are out you need to slide the speaker out towards the front.

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Number of downloads: 48

The speaker is connected to the car's wiring harness via an OEM plug. You can buy two Pin Housings BMW Part No 61136901731 and four contacts BMW Part No 61138364835 and then insert them into the plug. This will give you access to the speaker cables.
The Earthquake speakers have normal terminals but one is a miniature one. Use two Fully Insulated Crimp - ‘Lucar’ Female Terminals for the earthquake speakers (Maplin's code JH81C and N22AN). Connect a 2.5mm gauge wire between the Lucar Terminals and the BMW contacts 61136901733. That way you don't have to slice the cables or remove any plugs etc.

Put everything back and then tune your system. I'll post more pictures when I actually replace my subs. But for now this project of mine is on hold because I can't simply replace one sub.

[Black BMW530iA]

Nice pictures To bad about the broken speaker
Good luck with the rest of the project.
How deep is the box for the sub under the seat?

[Black BMW530iA]

On a scale from 1 to 10, how good are the original speakers in the E60 if you have the Logic 7?

[Russ1974]

bruce_miranda, on Dec 4 2007, 11:39 AM, said:

Hit a problem with the subwoofer install today. When I actually opened the sub woofer I noticed that one of them was not quite correct. The cone was not moving freely and the dust cap had come away. I've written to the person I bought these speakers from to see what options I have. I could really scream at this point but am trying to be clam.

I'm sure some people are aware that I'm the seller of these as I sold them through an advert on this site. Please rest assured I'm sorting Bruce out to ensure there is no bitterness over the transaction

[Russ1974]

Black BMW530iA, on Dec 5 2007, 02:53 AM, said:

On a scale from 1 to 10, how good are the original speakers in the E60 if you have the Logic 7?

From the general comments on the people on the forum;
Pre LCI - very good
Post LCI - not so good !

[bruce_miranda]

OK there is hope for my project after all. Just been given my DHL tracking number for the speaker so I'm all excited again. Managed to find an extremely friendly eBay US shop who gave me a good price on the speaker but shipping it what kills. Anyway back to the project.

spindrome raised an important and valid problem with the speaker install and that will probably get me thinking for the next few days while I wait for the speaker to arrive.

The aftermarket and the OEM speakers are exactly the same in terms of the over-all main shape and screw positions. However they differ in that the OEM speaker has the wiring plug built into the housing of the speaker to one side. That makes the shape slightly different. So when you install the Earthquake speakers you notice you still have that "hole" where the OEM wire connectors are? You don't get a solid seal for the enclosure. It almost becomes a small port.

How did others resolve this problem?

[bruce_miranda]

Russ1974, on Dec 5 2007, 07:02 PM, said:

I'm sure some people are aware that I'm the seller of these as I sold them through an advert on this site. Please rest assured I'm sorting Bruce out to ensure there is no bitterness over the transaction

Russ,

I would have never mentioned this if you hadn't, I just don't do that. But now that you've brought it up let me tell this forum what an absolute Gentleman you've been in covering my loss, even though you did not have to as there was probably no way you would have known about this issue before attempting to use the speaker. Its what makes me log in to this forum each day because the majority of members are stars.

On a positive note, I now have a speaker to experiment my fitment issue raised.

Black BMW530iA, on Dec 5 2007, 08:29 AM, said:

Nice pictures To bad about the broken speaker
Good luck with the rest of the project.
How deep is the box for the sub under the seat?

See this http://forums.e60.ne...opic=21001&st=0

[my530i]

Bruce,
I installed the amp before and I still have problem with power. Even w/o key-on, the amp still on and it consumes battery. If you use ACC, you cannot listen to music with key on in position 1.
Any suggestion? You're tempting me to add this sws-8
Fred

[bruce_miranda]

Fred I'm going to see how much time the amp is on before and after I use the Key. If its simply on until the car goes to sleep then I wont bother too much about it, unless i get too many Battery Drain messages. Biggest issue with this is how do I look inside a closed boot for a power lamp...I'll figure something out.

But if its always on then maybe I use your suggestion and use the boot socket as remote because we know that it comes on only after the car is started.

[my530i]

Bruce,
The remote on signal to OEM amp will be off when car goes to sleep. You can use that signal to turn on the amp, but I experienced Battery Drain message.

Quote

But if its always on then maybe I use your suggestion and use the boot socket as remote because we know that it comes on only after the car is started.

This is still a half-solved solution because when you listen to radio when key in position 1 (not ACC), you won't hear any bass. I think power pin from CID is the right choice because it's only on when you have key in position 1? It could be the same type of power signal as amp power signal which is always on until car goes to sleep.
The issue with the amp is it draws quite some current when it's on => Drain battery.

[bruce_miranda]

So the hunt is to find a power source in the rear fuse box that will come on at position 1 and 2 but go off immediately on position 0. Behave like the AC etc.

[bruce_miranda]

My replacement sub arrived today and I managed to install both subs in under an hour. Its an amazing thing, experience. Anyway I thought I'd finish some more writing up today.

I had to build a custom harness with some crimp terminals for the speakers and some BMW OEM connectors. See image.
 DSC00168.JPG (97.47K)
Number of downloads: 25

You must buy two Pin Housings BMW Part No 61136901731 and four contacts BMW Part No 61138364835 and then insert them into the plugs. This way the entire solution become plug and play using all BMW OEM connectors and parts.

As for the hole where the original plug fitted, is used some thick Styrofoam cut much larger than the hole. I then squeezed it into the hole and push the speaker against it. It seems like a nice tight fit now.

However the system sound absolutely rubbish and needs some tuning. The bass sounds too boomy. Any tuning experts in the house, what should I cross over at etc? I've currently got the HPF = off, LPF = on and crossover set at 50Hz.

[bruce_miranda]

Lesson 4 : Tuning the amp.

I managed to find an excellent test tone cd. See http://binkster.net/extras.shtml I burnt this on to a CD with the track names as the CD Text and it was the best use of the CD Text facility. Made tuning the crossovers an absolute breeze.

In tuning my system I also managed to blow the fuse once, only to also realise that the WDS is wrong for post 2005-09 cars in that the Fuse is not at F80 but at F73. Thank goodness for spare fuses in the first aid kit.

Anyway I crossed over the Low Pass filters at about 100hz and things sound fine now.

[Deano]

bruce_miranda, on Dec 8 2007, 12:34 PM, said:

Lesson 4 : Tuning the amp.

I managed to find an excellent test tone cd. See http://binkster.net/extras.shtml I burnt this on to a CD with the track names as the CD Text and it was the best use of the CD Text facility. Made tuning the crossovers an absolute breeze.

In tuning my system I also managed to blow the fuse once, only to also realise that the WDS is wrong for post 2005-09 cars in that the Fuse is not at F80 but at F73. Thank goodness for spare fuses in the first aid kit.

Anyway I crossed over the Low Pass filters at about 100hz and things sound fine now.

WDS?

Did you guys solve the amp on/off batttery drain problem?

So now you've got the new sub amp, sws-8 subs, and the rest of the system stock. How do you feel about the upgrade compared to stock? Are you comletely happy with this setup? Did you acheive the sound you were hoping for? Do you have better, tighter sound at higher volumes that before? I suppose that now with the new subs you are getting more dynamic range, you might not need higher volumes. Do the stock speakers still satisfy with the additional bass you've added or did the quality of the bass "leap frog" the quality of the highs? are you done, or have you been bitten by the hi-fi bug?

I know it's a lot of questions, but I was really hoping for a little more than "and things sound fine now".

Inquiring minds want to know dude!

[bruce_miranda]

WDS is BMWs wiring diagram system. Dont even begin any electronic or wiring work on your car without it - but as mentioned don't trust is completely too, this is the second instance when the WDS has been wrong.

The amp does not stay on until the car goes to sleep. It stays on for a while. I know this because if I have the boot door open I can see the amp go off but the car has still not gone to sleep because I still get voltage from a lot of pins and also the boot light is still on.

I've not spent any time driving along with my new set-up so I do not know how I will like it yet. Another thing that is bothering me is the Speed Dependant Volume and will that mess up my tuning. On testing i was satisfied with the sound. I was expecting a lot more from it though. The Highs and Mids have been fine to my ears. It was just the bass that was lacking. Ofcourse now I do not have to turn the bass up from flat and neither is my fader turned back and the bass is fine.

I'll need to spend a few more days with the set-up before I'm 100% satisfied.