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Old 09-11-2009, 12:04 AM   #1
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Hi all!

Well as the title says, I repaired my "increase emissions" code on my V8 which saved me at least $200 from the dealer (i'm sure dealer would of found a boatload of urgent/recommended repairs/codes so it could of easily been more). You would not believe how easy this was, and i will share with you all the quick and simple procedures to rid of this dreaded code, which i've seen sneaked up on some members here recently.

I got my code a month ago and just wanted to be sure it wouldn't pop up again before i posted this. Well, i've driven my '05 545 for 150 miles since this repair (Aug27) and guess what, no codes! So I know I'm safe posting this now. I'm not saying this is a cure all nor might it solve your particular problem (at least I hope it does!) but this is probably the first repair your dealership may attempt in resolving this issue. Keep in mind this repair was done on my V8. I'm guessing it should be a relative repair to you I6's, but may differ in appearance and cost than the v8's. Please research it here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ for those with I6's.

Tools needed: Just ONE FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER. Seriously! I even used this to remove the engine cover. haha
Total time doing repair: 30 minutes tops!!

This is the one item (two units) which needed replacing: it's called a "Pressure Regulating Valve - Repair Kit." For you experienced mechanics, it acts like the old PCV (positive crankcase valve) valve in older vehicles. This one's just pricier. BMW Part # 11-12-7-547-058 at approximately $30 each.
[attachment=114841SC01377.JPG]

And this tool is a life saver. It's called "CodeKey." I discovered it at my local Costco Warehouse for less than $40. Not only will this instrument find the trouble code number (which btw is universal to all vehicles built after 1996 regardless of make), but also the description of what this code number stands for. And to top it all off, it will allow you to "turn off" the "Service Engine Soon" light also.
*** Note: Turning off the "Service Engine Light" before the repair is made will only re-illuminate this light even after driving only several miles. Trust me I know. The car's are pretty intelligent like that.
[attachment=114842SC01407.JPG]

Step 1
Remove engine cover with, yes you guessed it: that handy mandy screwdriver. I don't have a Torx set. Don't need one. haha
I don't need to place a pic here now do I?

Step 2
Remove the cylinder head covers. No tools are required to remove these as they are held in by two studs inside of rubber grommets, one forward and the other aft. Just gently tug on these straight outwards and it should pop right out.

Step 3
Passenger side cylinder head. Do you notice the black round plastic piece towards the front of the engine (centered in pic)? Well, that is the Pressure Regulating Valve, held in by six built-in clips. Disconnect the hose and unclip valve with the handy screwdriver (or your fingernails) and pull it out.
[attachment=114840SC01385.JPG]

Pic of driver side
[attachment=114845SC01387.JPG]

What will happen next is the rubber orange valve will remain in orifice with the spring. No worries. Gently pull the orange rubber valve out to expose the spring. (This pic is of the drivers side)
[attachment=114843SC01394.JPG]

Remove old spring. Wipe down chamber with a clean towel. Repeat step on other side cylinder head.
[attachment=114844SC01393.JPG]


Step 4
Reinstallation. Just do it reversed. With a clean orifice, insert spring, then apply orange valve. Just be sure you seat this rubber valve properly in the existing groove. Snap fit the plastic cover (make sure you hear six clicks) and most importantly, don't forget to re-connect hose. Now install the engine covers.
Here you will notice the groove along the outer edge.
[attachment=114847SC01397.JPG]


Step 5
Connecting CodeKey. With key in the ignition, turn to position 2. This position will illuminate the instrument panel but should not start the engine. Do not start the engine. Now insert CodeKey plug into our vehicle OBD II connector. It is located immediately above the trunk open switch. Your CodeKey is now on, press "Ready" and it will begin to search for code (s). Once done, your CodeKey will display the code number and description. WRITE THIS DOWN! for future reference. I was so anxious to get this done, I neglected to log it down and take pics. Sorry! So I'll do my best to try and remember what codes I had. I had five codes, two weren't described (although did have a number), one related to MAF issue, the other two I just could not remember. I believe the MAF code might be related to me removing the charcoal filter. Not sure though, but I went ahead and cleaned my MAF sensor anyway.

I'm guessing the several codes I received were a result of having a bad pressure regulating valve, that somehow they're inter-related/twined. As if to say when one thing goes bad so will others, but those others may not necessarily be at fault. I hope I'm making sense. Anyway, I went ahead and erased all codes. I drove for 50 miles, re-inserted my CodeKey and "No Codes Found" was displayed. SWEET!!

This by the way is what my old pressure regulating valve looked like when removed:
[attachment=114846SC01398.JPG]

Notice how filthy the one on the left looks compared to the one on the right. Not only was it filthy, but there was a tear in the rubber valve!!

Hope this helps!! Any questions? Feel free to pm me anytime. Good Luck!
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Old 09-11-2009, 01:12 AM   #2
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Impressive. Respect

Thanks for the great DIY.

Just wanted to add that the torn rubber (cue the corny jokes ) on that valve was probably the actual problem. At any rate, this is VERY useful, and again, if I may,

Click the image to open in full size.

RES-PECT!
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Old 09-11-2009, 05:04 AM   #3
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Thanks, great DYI. My car had a "service engine soon" light several weeks ago. The related code was P0420 CSEBT(B1), catalytic system efficiency below threshold. By research
I deteremined that the code was quite often indicative of a bad cat converter or monitoring(AFT) O2 sensor. The cat converter is still under warranty. Trying to avoid a trip to the dealer for the same reasons you mentioned, I replaced the O2 sensor. Driven 150 miles and no light yet, if it comes back maybe I'll give your fix a try.

Thanks
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:09 AM   #4
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Thanks for the DIY instructions.
Can you tell us what code number you got, for reference purposes?
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
*** Note: Turning off the "Service Engine Light" before the repair is made will only re-illuminate this light even after driving only several miles. Trust me I know. The car's are pretty intelligent like that.
You know or you tried?

Confirm me that you had tried to "clear" the Check Engine Light w/ OBD2 Computer then the CEL came back on prior you deciding to perform this fix.

I just want to make sure that the initial CEL is not caused by "freaky" sensor reading error caused by low battery voltage, sudden weather change, etc.

Because sometime erasing CEL pretty much can fix the CEL unless it pops back out within one thank of gas or several cycle of ECU run (abt 300 miles)

Thanks for the detailed write up! I will keep this in mind for sure if I ever get those code.

How many miles is your car? I think this part needs to be included as part of maintenance as it's recommended to change PCV valve every 30K-40K or so.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-11-2009, 07:22 AM   #6
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Was the code you got loose gas cap? Cause ive keep getting CEL go to autozone read it " loose gas cap" changed gas cap twice now u show me this diy it even has my indy stumped very good indy btw im going to order this part and give it a try
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:07 AM   #7
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Thanks guyz!


Quote:
Originally Posted by salaki' post='1004849' date='Sep 11 2009, 08:11 AM
You know or you tried?

Confirm me that you had tried to "clear" the Check Engine Light w/ OBD2 Computer then the CEL came back on prior you deciding to perform this fix.

I just want to make sure that the initial CEL is not caused by "freaky" sensor reading error caused by low battery voltage, sudden weather change, etc.

Because sometime erasing CEL pretty much can fix the CEL unless it pops back out within one thank of gas or several cycle of ECU run (abt 300 miles)

Thanks for the detailed write up! I will keep this in mind for sure if I ever get those code.

How many miles is your car? I think this part needs to be included as part of maintenance as it's recommended to change PCV valve every 30K-40K or so.

Thanks again!
Dave right? Thanks.

What I had initially thought was that I had a bad gas tank cover or that I may have left it open as mikeg said. So I took it to a dealer who told me what the problem may be and was asking for $200 for repair. He did explain to me the part they were going to replace and it sounded really simple to do. BTW, the labor cost was $130/hr. So after leaving the dealer (they cleared the code), the light came back on again a day later. I had just changed my battery 2 months ago so that wasn't the issue. I currently have 53k. I really wish i had written down the codes damnit!!

hope this helps.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:46 AM   #8
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Good write up. Thanks for sharing.

$40 for a code reader is an amazing find! I remember looking at code readers back when I was considering an e39 M5, "peake code reader" was around $200. I didn't get an M5, so never but a code reader. But for $40, what the hell, may as well get one.


Just found this website Code Key which will tell how to use the codekey, but the linked manufacturer's website doesn't list the part.

Vendors? Vendors? what have you got?
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:53 AM   #9
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Great DIY Allen. Thanks for the call last night. I was having problem with the M Sports suspension install when I PMed Allen for help. It's people like him that makes this forum a real plus for its members. Keep up the good work .
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Old 09-11-2009, 11:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e6t.lab.rat' post='1004895' date='Sep 11 2009, 11:07 AM
Thanks guyz!




Dave right? Thanks.

What I had initially thought was that I had a bad gas tank cover or that I may have left it open as mikeg said. So I took it to a dealer who told me what the problem may be and was asking for $200 for repair. He did explain to me the part they were going to replace and it sounded really simple to do. BTW, the labor cost was $130/hr. So after leaving the dealer (they cleared the code), the light came back on again a day later. I had just changed my battery 2 months ago so that wasn't the issue. I currently have 53k. I really wish i had written down the codes damnit!!

hope this helps.
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